Large-format porcelain, natural stone, glass and mosaic. The material is the easy part — what separates a good install from a cheap one is the flatness underneath and the thinking that happens before the first tile is set.
Whole-home porcelain, wood-look plank, herringbone and chevron layouts, natural stone.
Where tile work either holds up or doesn't. Full-height walls, pans, niches and benches.
The highest-impact tile in the house, and the one where bad cuts show worst.
Glass, agate, penny round, basketweave, hex. The details people photograph.
Florida sun, Florida rain, Florida movement. Exterior tile is its own discipline.
Cracked tiles, hollow spots, failed grout lines, someone else's unfinished job.
Large-format tile is unforgiving. A slab that's out by a quarter-inch over ten feet will telegraph through as lippage on every single joint — and no amount of skill with a trowel fixes it afterwards.
Long straightedge and a laser across the whole area before we quote. If it needs self-levelling compound or a patch, that's in the estimate — not a surprise later.
We find the centre lines, check where the cuts land, and shift the grid so full tiles sit where the eye goes and cuts land symmetrically in the corners.
95% mortar coverage in wet areas, 80% dry — measured by pulling a tile, not assumed. Hollow spots are what crack tiles two years later.
Every joint clipped so nothing sets proud. It's slower and it costs more in consumables. It's also why you can run a hand across our floors and feel nothing.
Rectified porcelain gets tight joints. Handmade and natural stone need wider ones to look right. We'll tell you which your tile wants.
Flat within 1/8" over 10ft
Kitchen backsplash
It's also the fastest, cheapest transformation in a kitchen — usually one to two days, no demolition, no living without a kitchen.
Running the feature tile to the underside of the hood instead of stopping at the upper cabinets is the single biggest upgrade you can make.
Box extenders and re-set devices so plates sit tight to the tile. Almost nobody does this and it is glaringly obvious when they don't.
Hoods, windows, corners and end walls get finished edges — mitred, trimmed or bullnosed, never a raw cut left showing.
Labour typically runs from the mid single digits per square foot for a straightforward large-format floor, up considerably for mosaics, herringbone, natural stone and small-format work — those take three to five times longer per square foot. Prep is quoted separately because it varies wildly: an old, flat slab is cheap to work on; a bowed floor with three layers of old adhesive is not.
Either. Buy it yourself if you enjoy that part — just order 12–15% over for cuts and breakage (20% for herringbone or diagonal layouts), and send us the spec sheet so we can confirm it suits the application. If you'd rather not, we source it at trade pricing and handle returns on overage.
Occasionally, if the existing floor is well bonded, flat and structurally sound — and if the extra height doesn't cause problems at doors and appliances. More often the right answer is to take it up. We'll tell you which after we've sounded the existing floor for hollow spots, not before.
Light foot traffic 24 hours after grouting, normal use at 72 hours, and heavy furniture after a week. Wet areas need the full cure before the first shower. We'll leave you a written schedule rather than a vague "give it a day".
Yes — there are examples of all three in the gallery. They cost more in labour and in waste, and they're worth it in the right room. We'll dry-lay the pattern and show you a photo before committing to a direction.
Send us the spec sheet and a photo of the space.